A Corn Lover’s Paradise: Where to Find Oaxacan Style Food in Merida

Yucatan is one of Mexico’s vast lands for culture, food, and tradition, and –over the last ten years or so —the gastronomic scene has flourished. Not only is the foodie satisfied with Yucatecan flavors, which are some of the most elaborate in the country but also an awesome offer from around Mexico and internationally. Merida hasn’t quite made it to the leagues of major metropolitan cities as far as food diversity, but we are well on our way. And I am a willing and eager consumer!

In Mexico, everyone raves about Oaxacan food. And really, it is some of the best in the country. With its complex flavors and traditional cooking methods, Oaxacan cuisine is celebrated for its use of local ingredients and time-honored recipes. This corn-based cuisine is deeply rooted in its ancestral indigenous history.  One of the most iconic elements of this cuisine is its variety of moles—complex sauces made from a blend of ingredients like chiles, spices, nuts, seeds, and sometimes chocolate. The famous tlayuda, often called a “Oaxacan pizza,” the quesillo a soft stretchy cheese,  and chocolate mixed with cinnamon an sugar are the ultimate comfort food. And you can’t say you’ve eaten Oaxacan food without trying the chapulines, toasted grasshoppers, and a shot of Mexican with a bit of worm salt on the side. Having both coastal and inland influences Oaxacan food is complex, fresh, and delicious.

In Merida, there are a few stand-out places for Oaxacan food and MID City has some favorites for you to try.

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Apoala

Apoala has become a household name among foreigners who live here or are coming to visit. It’s located in Santa Lucia, a historic park plaza in Centro that has been turned into a trendy restaurant where you can eat while listening to live music. It’s a fabulous location, and many great restaurants are there. Apoala is Oaxacan food taken to a whole new level of incredible. Chef Sara Arnaud has done a superb job with the menu, which never disappoints.

Insider tip: On Thursdays, there is live music in the Santa Lucia park. It can be really fun and you’ll need to reserve a table, because it get filled up. However, it can also be loud, so you might not be able to converse very well. So if you go on Thursday night after 9pm and want to have an intimate conversation, better to get a table inside

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Tizatlan

This is a new bar with a Oaxacan street food menu of tacos, gorditas, and quesadillas ranging price from $45-$120 pesos depending on the ingredients. The place is super cool and a new MID City hot spot. It’s small with one long table in the middle and a row of melted candles in the middle. And a couple of two-seater tables by the wall. Their specialty is Mezcal cocktails; but you can get other spirits, beer, and wine as well. They give you roasted pumpkin seeds, peanuts and chapulines to snack on with your mezcal. Although it’s a bar, it’s worth going just for the tacos/street food! The menu is designed by one of Merida’s best Chefs Sara Arnauld from Oaxaca. 

Insider tip: Make a reservation because it’s small and fills up! 

MID City favorites: Quesadilla de flor de calabaza & taco de albondiga al chipotle –both amazing.

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Volta Cafe Santa Lucia

Volta Cafe is a cafe that serves breakfast lunch and dinner and some fantastic Sunday brunch! The menu has a bit of a fusion, but many dishes have Oaxacan roots, and you’ll find dishes such as the outstanding tlayudita de huevo, entomatadas con tasajo, huevos rancheros oaxaqueños and several other dishes that we love. You really can’t go wrong at Volta. 

They have a full coffee bar and have a reputation for some of the best coffee in town. They also have mixed drinks and a nice wine list. 

For September they also have the patriotic dish Chile en Nogada. And it is AMAZING!

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Sandunga

This little gem is pure Oaxacan goodness and we always delight in every dish we try, and I believe at this point we’ve tried each one. The authentic Oaxacan food bursts with flavors as you dine under the colored papel picado. My favorites are the tostadas de mix de hongos, molotes (corn dough, smoked sausage, potato, bean sauce and Oaxacan cheese, tlyaudas and of course incredible moles. For sure if you love Oaxacan food, you got to try it here!

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Pancho Maiz

Although not identified as a Oaxacan restaurant, when I was in Oaxaca, most of the contemporary restaurants took me right back to eating at Pancho Maiz. They are a corn based kitchen using all heirloom corn from small Maya Yucatecan farmers. Their creative menu with tetelas, memelas, and other Mexican favorites with delicious guisos made me add it here too. If you come to Merida, Pancho Maiz is a place you must try.

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Oaxaca y sus Sabores

Authentic and traditional Mexican food with generous portions—delicious and satisfying. They also have a small shop selling Oaxacan products. The Chapulín taco is a must-try, and the Tlayuda is exceptional.

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