Doña Soco's Melcocha: A Sweet Legacy in the Traditional Food of Yucatán

Mexico is the land of spectacular food, deep culture, and extraordinary folkloric art. The handmade popular art is a vibrant tapestry of color and tradition that weaves stories of ancient civilizations and modern celebrations. To witness the process of worn hands creating meticulously and meditatively is truly an honor. It is also fascinating how in all of the states in Mexico, each particular craft comes from a specific town—whether woodworking, weaving, candlemaking, stonemasonry, etc. Here in Yucatán, it is no different. In the town of Dzitya, just minutes away from Mérida, generations of woodworkers, stonemasons, and traditional candy makers thrive. The livelihood of nearly everyone in the town revolves around one of these crafts.

On a recent visit to Dzitya to speak with some of the artisans, I interviewed Jose Luis Piste, a woodworker. Afterward, he asked if I wanted to visit Doña Socorro, a candy maker. Of course, I said yes. We hopped in my VW Bug and headed to Doña Soco’s humble house, where she welcomed us warmly.

María Úrsula del Socorro Martínez Cobo, affectionately known as Doña Soco, shared her heartwarming story of how she began making dulce de melcocha, the traditional taffy-like candy in Dzitya. Her journey into the world of artisan candy making was born out of necessity and family tradition.

Doña Soco was left a widow with two young children, faced with the challenge of supporting her family. She used to collect firewood, and her grandfather would carry the load to collect payment. However, payment was often refused, leaving them in a difficult situation.

In response to this hardship, her grandfather advised her to start making melcocha, as her grandmother had done before. Melcocha is made by combining egg whites and honey and mixing them in a pot over hot coals for four hours while the honey caramelizes and the mixture reaches a taffy-like consistency. It is quite laborious and completely made by hand. Her grandfather suggested that Doña Soco sell it in Mérida, the capital of Yucatán, to support her family. Thus, Doña Soco embarked on her craft of la melcocha, later adding her unique touch by incorporating peanuts or pumpkin seeds.

Doña Soco has been making her candy for over 50 years and sells her melcocha in front of a fruit shop near a pharmacy in town. However, an injury to her hand a month ago forced her to pause her sales. Her son helps her with the mixing process, and her loyal customers continue to seek her out, coming directly to her to purchase the beloved peanut and pumpkin seed melcocha.

Through her dedication to traditional food and her grandmother’s legacy, Doña Soco has become a cherished figure in Yucatán. Her story is a testament to the resilience and ingenuity found in the region’s rich cultural heritage. Customers savor her handcrafted treats, preserving a delicious piece of Yucatán’s culinary tradition.